I use Photoshop as little as I can, I should much prefer to get an image perfect in camera which means that I am not spending time on every picture. Nearly all of my pictures have been taken around 30 minutes.
A picture shot at mid day, may be affected by harsh and high sunlight. To get over this I placed my model in the shadows produced by the branches of a sizable palm tree. I set up a large California Sun-bounce Gold and Silver Zebra reflector in the direct sunlight reflecting soft warm lighting on the front of a model.
I got a light measurement from my models face and photographed with shutter speed of 1250s aperture of f2.8 at 400 ISO. White-colored balance set up to daylight.
This image was shot in my D2H with a 24mm to be able to 70mm f2,8 Nikon lens, focal duration set with 42mm, 1.4 mtrs away from my own model to emphasize her arms and legs also therefore we had a excellent connection regarding creating great energy and leading.
Notice my lens/eye level is in the middle of the woman’s torso, this is important when shooting wide angle and close to your own subject to prevent distortion, for instance if you take to high up your versions head will be big and the girl legs may be like they are brief like a hen and visa versa therefore its vital that you get your eye/camera lens stage at the proper just the height to prevent distortion,
I will most likely shoot from a lower angle, especially if I am wanting to emphasize the gap of a models legs regarding hosiery images.
To keep the sun as blue as possible I chance with a polarizing filtration on my lens, looking towards the west of the particular midday sunlight. This is how you continue the sea and heaven blue as well as making my own models skin/tan look great an silky by eliminating some of the specular reflections on her behalf skin.
When I had been taking pictures facing more to the east the sky and the ocean would have been a lot more burned out..
When I first started shooting digital I stood a lot of difficulties because I tried to shoot digital exactly as I shot film. Now any time I am firing, I will always beneath expose from your meter reading through, this is done a couple of of reasons, in order to saturate shade as well as to make sure I am not really loosing my personal high lamps. Obviously my own images will probably be a little around the dark side but I can easily appropriate for this by using a little s curve in Photoshop to start the particular retouching process.
I usually shoot raw files and a small jpg, exactly why I will explain inside another Tiny Gem.
I process my raw file as shot in camera raw from Bridge and open these in adobe Photoshop. (Raw files possess a great deal more latitude re graphic data and will lead to much better quality pictures).
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